The Rebirth of Rionda

The fame of Barolo’s Vignarionda cru rests almost entirely on the “Collina Rionda” Barolos made by Bruno Giacosa starting in 1967.

But since Giacosa made his last Collina Rionda in 1993, no one has come close to capturing their magic. Finally, it may have happened, thanks to the planets aligning in a truly remarkable way.

Because this Serralunga vineyard wraps around a hill, Vignarionda is actually multiple terroirs. The vines at the western end face west, but the more favored vines at the eastern end face south. It’s with good reason Eric Guido once wrote, “not all Vigna Rionda is created equal.”

Giacosa’s grapes came from the prime south-facing eastern end, from a vertical strip owned by the Canale family. And right next to Canale’s vines are those of Luigi Oddero.

As luck would have it (or was it divine intervention?), in 2012 Giacosa’s long-time protégé, Dante Scaglione, became Luigi Oddero’s winemaker. Having worked side-by-side with Bruno for nearly 25 years, Dante knows more about his methods than anyone else on the planet.

Dante also has, according to Ian d’Agata, a “Giacosa-esque ability to coax sweet tannins and luscious fruit” from Vignarionda, a cru often known for the sternness of its wines.

But for Dante to approach the magic of Giacosa’s 1978, 1982 and 1989 Collina Rionda Riservas, he needed a harvest of that stature. Fortunately, he found just what he needed in Barolo’s monumental 2016 vintage.

Finally, after eight years of aging in botti and bottle, Dante’s long-awaited 2016 Luigi Oddero Barolo Vignarionda has been released.

The wine’s first review, from Kerin O’Keefe, is also now out. And her 100-point rating (the review is below) tells you the wine was well worth the eight-year wait.

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